Refashion Progress

Although progress on my second Heidi dress has slowed to less than a snail’s pace, I’ve made considerable headway in the neckline refashion on my grey wool Talbot’s sheath. What can I say? It’s easy to distract me sometimes.

After finalizing the pattern for the refashioned bodice center panel and neckline, and cutting the existing panel accordingly—outer fabric and lining—I flipped each so that wrong sides were together, pinned them along the new neckline edge, and sewed a 3/8-inch seam. Then I pressed the seam open and understitched the lining edge to the seam allowance and pressed it all again so I could have a nice clean edge that lays perfectly flat when it’s all finished. 

I pinned the outer panel to its lining in a straight line down the center of the panel to keep everything in place while I was working on placing it between the bodice outer fabric and lining. In retrospect, I should have basted the panel fabric and lining together to make it easier. But it worked well enough.

I started the placement by hanging the dress and sliding the bottom tip of the new panel between the outer dress and its lining at the open waistline seam and pinned it in place. Then I used a hand backstitch to sew it in place at the waistline.

From there, it was all pinned into place along each side of the unstitched bodice center. I tried it on to make sure it was straight and even and not bunching anywhere, and amazingly it looked perfect. I measured the distance between the bodice edge and the center V point on each side and got 4 1/2 inches for both.

I had hoped it would be easy to machine sew the panel to the bodice opening, but the existing seam allowance and the configuration and construction of the bodice (especially with the reapplied bodice stay) made it impossible.

So after making sure the panel was pinned correctly in place, I simply selected a dark charcoal thread and used a tiny pickstitch to hand sew the panel in place from the outside of the bodice.

If you look closely, you might be able to just make out tiny indentations where the “pick” of each stitch is located, but a good steam ironing might make them less visible. 

Then I flipped the skirt exterior up from its lining, pinned the open waistline seam allowance together, and machine-sewed it all together again.

To reattach the bodice lining to the center panel, I’ll also use a hand pickstitch, but will probably need to apply it from the outside above the top edge of the center panel to prevent any stitches showing through. I’m not sure it’ll be necessary to stitch the lining down to the center panel below the interior bodice stay. It was all sewn down originally, of course, but first I’ll try it on to see if it’s necessary to keep things smooth (it probably will be).

I’m really happy with how this refashion is turning out; it’s much better than I expected, but just as well as I had hoped. I’ve tried it on and it’s looking great. When it’s complete, I’ll post pics showing the interior lining sewn down and then the refashioned dress worn.

After this neckline refashion I’ll feel much more confident in taking on another one that should be simpler. I have a zebra-striped sheath from Talbots that just isn’t working for me anymore. More on that in another post.